Tarangire Sopa Lodge (Tarangire) July 23-24

Woohoo, we slept in until 7 AM! Then breakfast from 7:30-8:30, with a morning game drive around Lake Manyara at 8:30 AM. Awesome loop around the lake - lots of excellent sightings: waterbuck, elephants, baboons, monkeys, Masai giraffe, white pelicans, spoonbills, hammerkops, Egyptian geese, hippos, wildebeest, zebras, red & yellow barbets, kingfishers and impala.





Zebras gather under the shade of a yellow fever acacia.




Assorted wildlife gather near Lake Manyara.





Two adult Masai giraffes get into a shoving match.



Another elephant.



Impala.


Red and yellow barbet.




Kingfisher.







I am standing next to the skull of an elephant at the entrance to Tarangire National Park.







Male waterbuck (above).




Vervet monkey chewing on the branch of an acacia tree.







The Bobblehead baboon - named in honor of Bonnie - for its ability to sleep in an upright position.






White pelicans, spoonbills, hammerkops and Egyptian Geese gather around the lake.




We had a lunch buffet from 1-2 PM after we returned from our game drive, then we were on the road to Tarangire National Park. As we hit the road, we see baboons galore on both sides of the road tempting fate and the cars and trucks whizzing inches away from them.

We entered Tarangire National Park about 4 PM. All vehicles were sprayed for the tsetse fly, since the flies are apparently attracted to the light color of the 4 x 4. The man with the sprayer wore a mask and wasn't even paying attention where he was spraying - we had a back window and the top open. We joked that Bonnie and Terry were found several hours later in deep slumber. We couldn't even revive them in time to visit the gift shop!

On the way to the lodge, Iris was bitten on the inside of her upper arm by a tsetse fly. She was freaking out, but Mao assured her it was nothing to worry about. In case she died from the sleeping sickness and did not awake the next morning, Terry asked if she could have Iris' camera, and I asked for her bag of Jolly Ranchers.

Later, while we were sharing a bottle of red wine in the lodge lounge - joined later by Terry and Bonnie with their drinks, we spotted Teresa and Tsan on their way to dinner. Iris got up from our table on the outside deck to let them know where we were and she ran smack dab into one of the plate glass panels of the lounge. I didn't see her do it - but I did hear the loud thump of forehead meeting glass. All the wait staff came running to see if she was all right and if she needed some ice for her noggin. After we decided she was OK, we just couldn't stop laughing. No more red wine for her!

We really enjoyed watching the staff sing and dance at dinner. During one final song, they started waving the white linen napkins. Soon every tourist was waving their napkin in the air as well while the staff wove between the tables in an undulating conga line. It was great!

To bed around 10:30 PM. Mosquito netting pulled around the beds again. My room is huge - could be an apartment with a luxury bath!

Up at 5:20 AM to get a hot shower, since the generator is only running from 5-8 AM and 5-8 PM. Out the door after grabbing some coffee at 6:30 AM for our last game drive and last opportunity to spot the last of the big 5 - the leopard (we'd even settle for a cheetah at this point).




Lou takes a photo of me taking a photo of him and Carol. We are wearing our hats and jackets this chilly morning.





Yellow-throated Sandgrouse.




Cape buffalo.














Around and around we went in Tarangire National Park, searching high and low for Otis and Brutus. Took a few more photos of the male and female ostriches; some good ones of the Cape buffalo, and just as we were running out of time, we spotted Deogracias (yes, that was his name) and his van with Teresa, Tsan, Carol and Lou, as well as another green jeep. They were already off track and knew we were coming to join them (apparently, if there are just a few drivers at one spot and they agree to go off track they will do it - minimizing the impact to the environment).

Boy, what a scene on that spot - a male lion devouring a Cape buffalo! We were so close we could hear the crunching of the buffalo's bones as the male lion devoured the prime parts. Meanwhile, the female lion waited patiently alongside for her turn. When the male was finished, he walked a short distance with the female; peed; nuzzled the female (although I think he was just licking the blood off her face); walked a little further; squatted and took a major dump - all recorded by the 8 of us for posterity. What an amazing end to our safari adventure! We were still on a high when we returned to the lodge for breakfast before our departure.













But wait...that wasn't the end of our adventure. As we left the lodge for the airport, we were confronted by a very large, protective, female elephant who refused to budge from the road ahead of us and allow us to proceed. She very deliberately used her trunk to spray the red dust from the road all over her body. It was a stare down and looked to be a stalemate, and when Iris told Mau to use his instincts, he threw the gearshift into reverse and we immediately backed up a few yards. At about the same moment, another vehicle was approaching from the opposite direction. Only then did the female elephant back up and move sideways - giving us the hairy eyeball the entire time. Later we noticed that she seemed to be protecting a little one, who was waiting for her in the savannah grass.















But wait...there was another fantastic moment several minutes later, as about 100 baboons flooded into the roadway ahead of us, as if they were personally escorting us from the park. We told Mau that all the animals - the zebras, warthogs, wildebeest, buffalo, lions, elephants, giraffes, and all the birds were saying goodbye in their own special way. (We would have prefered to stay in the park than be on our way to the Tanzanite Museum, which really only the 5 unpleasant ones wanted to see in the first place. We were all forced to go to the museum because our guides/drivers made a reservation for 13 people. About 4-5 workers had to stay past closing hours just to accommodate these 5 idiots. And then, to top it all off, they didn't even buy anything! Talk about ugly Americans! Don't get me started on them again...)















At the Kilimanjaro Airport, we were able to check our luggage all the way through to JFK in NYC (alleluia) and obtain 3 boarding passes for: Kilimanjaro to Nairobi (1 hour); Nairobi to London Heathrow (about 8 hours) and Heathrow to JFK (another 7.5 hours). I loved the little puddle jumper from Kilimanjaro to Nairobi. Only 18 rows of 4 people each - easy to board and just less than one hour between stops. Beer was even free, so I enjoyed one last Kilimanjaro beer.

The Nairobi Airport was very interesting. After we landed, we had to walk a very long way on the outside tarmac before entering the terminal. There is absolutely nothing past the gate to the plane, so we waited until the last minute to enter that area. We spoke to a number of young adults who traveled to Kenya for missionary work - I was quite impressed with this 18 year old young lady from England who traveled on her own to an orphanage in Uganda. Kind of makes me feel like I've done nothing with my life...

Eventually, we arrive in JFK, where there are major delays and gate changes - welcome home! (When can I leave for Africa again)????


***Author's note: No animals were harmed in the making of this blog. The ones being devoured were already dead by the time the author photographed them, so they didn't realize that they were contributing to this blog.

Dedication: This blog, the stories and the incredible adventure that followed would not have been possible without the other 4 fantastic members of Team Post Menopausal - Iris, Bonnie, Terry and Judy, and our intrepid trackers, Njoka and Mau. You have all made me laugh more than I have in a very long time, and my life is richer because of our time together. I hope we may meet again in the near future. Asante sana and kwaheri!









THE END.

Lake Manyara Serena Lodge (Lake Manyara) July 22

Up at 6 AM; luggage out by 6:30 AM; followed by breakfast; and on the road by 7 AM. We enjoy an amazing game drive on the Ngorongoro Crater floor for about 4 hours, leaving the area at 12:50 PM for Gibbs Farm and lunch. Lots of animals, but still no cheetah or leopard.





Impala.









Mother and baby baboon.

Warthog (below).








Kori bustard - the heaviest flight bird in Tanzania (below right).



Wildebeest up close and personal.

The crowned crane - Uganda's national animal (right).



A male lion stirs from his nap for a look around.


A two-toned hippo with sodium bicarbonate lines from the shallow soda lake that makes up more than 70% of Lake Manyara National Park.



A sodium bicarbonate warthog!















We were amazed and very relieved that there were toilets at the bottom of the crater (especially since I had a few cups of coffee for breakfast). This crater is definitely a shared coexistence with the wild animals, and we joked that this was enough for us to go to the bathroom in a hurry! Mao pointed out a particular area where cheetah and leopard had been previously spotted and then he asked us if we needed to use the toilet there. We said we would rather wait until later rather than be lunch for the big cats.



A female ostrich makes a run for it!



We saw two very interesting animal interactions before we began our climb out of the crater. A male Masai ostrich with pink neck and pink legs ran across the field toward four females. He picked one; feathers and tail were flying in a blur - the mating was over before I could even focus the lens and press the shutter - talk about wham, bam, thank you ma'am!



Shortly after that episode, a baby wildebeest was nursing right alongside the road. Apparently the mother didn't appreciate either our gawking or the baby's insistent tugging because she started off at a gallop - with the baby clinging to her teats for dear life!
About an hour before lunch, we began our climb upward, out of the crater, ascending almost 2,000 feet to the rim with several hairpin turns (or as Iris would say, hair turn pins). We stopped for a very quick panoramic shot of the crater once we reached the rim, and that is where we heard the song of the Tropical boo boo (Iris' favorite bird).




















Iris and Carol try out the unique ladies room facilities before we dine.

Delicious lunch of assorted fruits and vegetables at Gibbs Farm - picked right from the property. Outstanding dish of the meal was definitely the rice pudding. Thirty acres of Arabica coffee plants covered the land.


Finally, we drove to the beautiful Lake Manyara Serena Lodge. Our rooms were in buildings that looked like pagodas. Once we unpacked, we scurried around to get photos before dark, then grabbed some prime seats with Carol, Lou, Teresa and Tsan poolside to watch the Tanzanian staff members dance and sing. Enjoyed some Kilimanjaro beer (both countries had very enjoyable, tasty beers).



Before one of the dances, the manager explained the story of two men courting the same woman. In the story, the men must fight to see who gets the woman. I asked the waiter what happens to the guy who never wins. He said the guy would never marry. Then we asked him if that's the way it's still done. He said, "No, today we just pick up our cell phone and call!" Ah, progress!




Dinner was, once again, delicious. Chicken broth soup, then choice of entrees. Iris, Terry and I had the pasta, which again was fantastic. As always, there were great desserts - caramel flan, strawberry tarts, mini chocolate eclairs, peanut brittle, kiwi mousse. The gym is calling my name...





Much laughter and discussion after dinner and back to our rooms around 9:30 PM. The staff had already sprayed our rooms with repellent and pulled mosquito netting around our beds. I feel like I'm on the set of Out of Africa. Would it be too much to hope for another hot water bottle? Oh well, a person can dream can't she?

Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge (Ngorongoro Crater) July 21

Up early for the third day in a row - 4 AM; luggage out at 4:15 AM; ship out at 5:20 AM for the Nairobi Airport and our flight to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania.

Upon arrival in Kilimanjaro, we meet our guide/driver, Maulidi (Mao for short). The effects of sleep deprivation were beginning to show... When Iris and I went to the Kilimanjaro ladies' room, I kept pulling on the door to enter, asking whoever was inside if they could let me in. Along came an airport attendant, who demonstrated how I should push on the door to enter. Boy did I feel stupid. Later, I climbed into the wrong bus after we took some photos from the Rift Valley lookout! I don't know who was more surprised - me or the other guide!

On our drive to Arusha for our safari orientation, Mau explains that Tanzania consists of the mainland part, formerly called Tanganyika, and the islands of Zanzibar (unification with Zanzibar occurred 26 April 1964). Since 1996, the capital has been at Dodoma. We immediately notice on our drive to Arusha that there are power lines here along with better paved roads; concrete culverts to channel water on either side of the road, which also provide a safe walking lane; and cleaner towns with less litter than we saw in Kenya.



Everyone seems to be involved when the market is happening. I have never seen so many interesting items being carried so easily on people's heads!

Before we left Njoka in Kenya, there was some discussion as to why the Tanzanians burned the Serengeti grasslands. According to the Kenyans, the Tanzanians were burning the fields to prevent the migration from entering Kenya. According to Mau, Tanzanians burned the fields for fertilization. Interesting...

Once we arrive for the orientation meeting at the Impala Hotel in Arusha, Terry (also manifesting some signs of sleep deprivation) followed Tsan into the men's room, and like lemmings going off the edge of a cliff, almost all the women followed her! I don't think poor Tsan ever recovered from the trauma!

As we wound our way toward the Ngorongoro farm house for lunch, Iris mentioned the hair turn pins (hairpin turns) and the leaves turning color (they were covered in dust). Bonnie, the bobble head (so-called from her head movements as she slept), asked where the flying lions, alias hiking lions - really called the tree-climbing lions - were. Again, an evident lack of sleep. Yes, we were getting punchy...

We had an incredible lunch at the Ngorongoro farm house. I loaded up on the pasta and enjoyed a Serengeti beer. We took several photos of the gardens and the beautiful landscaping.



















The Ngorongoro Conservation Area (NCA) is a conservation area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site situated 112 miles west of Arusha in the Crater Highlands area of Tanzania. The conservation area is administered by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority, an arm of the Tanzanian government, and its boundaries follow the boundary of the Ngorongoro Division of Ngorongoro District. The Ngorongoro Crater, a large volcanic caldera, lies within the area. It is a pioneering experiment in multi-purpose land use whee people (the Masai), their livestock and wildlife coexist and share the same protected habitat.

The main feature of the NCA is the Ngorongoro Crater, a large, unbroken, unflooded volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a giant volcano exploded and collapsed on itself some two to three million years ago, is 2,000 feet deep and its floor covers 100 square miles.Estimates of the height of the original volcano range from fifteen to nineteen thousand feet high.

Although thought of as "a natural enclosure" for a very wide variety of wildlife, up to 20% or more of the wildebeest and half the zebra populations vacate the Crater in the wet season. However, a side effect of this enclosure is that the population of Ngorongoro lions is significantly inbred, with many genetic problems passed from generation to generation. This is due to the very small amount of new bloodlines that enter the local gene pool, as very few migrating male lions enter the crater from the outside. Those who do enter the crater are often prevented from contributing to the gene pool by the crater's male lions, who, because of their large size (the result of an abundant and constant food source), easily expel any outside competitors. Animal populations in the crater include most of the species found in East Africa, but there are no impalas, topis, oribis, giraffes or crocodiles.

Mau stops so we can take some photos of our lodge, Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge, way up on the rim of the crater - still about an hour drive away. Once we get to the lodge, we take lots of photos of the buildings, as well as the incredible vistas.


We had to shower by 8 PM, since the generators would be shutting down.







We commandeered a great spot near the fireplace for our pre-dinner drinks (Iris & I shared a bottle of South African red wine); drank a toast to Judy; and watched some of the USA/Korea women's soccer World Cup game in Germany.

Another fantastic dinner in the restaurant with Goodluck as our server (yes, that was his name); followed by a quick look in the gift shop; then an escort to our rooms by a male staff member (to protect us from any errant animals). Turn-down service provided another wonderful surprise - a plaid hot water bottle to snug in with - heavenly!