Mara Simba Lodge (Masai Mara) July 18-19

Got up early this morning to walk down to the jetty for last minute animal sightings. Good thing I stopped to ask some staff members where the jetty was because I wasn't supposed to be going down there unescorted. One of the guys went with me to make sure I didn't meet with the same end as the Grizzly Man - he protected me from the 2 male wildebeest that were fighting just in front of the jetty ramp.

Long, very bumpy road to Masai Mara from 8 AM-12:40 PM. Major butt massage. At one point,we seemed to be traveling by ourselves after turning off onto a side road which was a little smoother than the washboard we left. We were on our own with no one in sight and just miles and miles of the reserve on all sides, when Judy piped up, "Njoka is planning to sell all of us into white slavery to the elderly Masai men." Iris chimed in, "Njoka will get a nice commission." Then Judy said, "Wait until they see Terry's Depends." When we spotted a water tower up ahead (usually the sign that civilization was near), I said, "They'll check our teeth there." Then all of us chimed in, "Well, they won't get much money for us!" Then we all laughed so hard that I really could have used one of Terry's Depends!

Finally, we reached the lodge (and we didn't even want to think about going out on that road again in another day). As was the custom - which I really found wonderful - we were greeted in the lodge lobby with wet washcloths and a glass of juice (much needed after that long, dusty journey).




I was in the furthest lodge, all by my lonesome, so I tipped the young lady helping me $2 instead of $1 for taking my suitcase to my room.

On to lunch - a wonderful ginger soup and buffet (delicious pesto). Iris and I got some great photos of the vervet monkeys on the walk back to our rooms. After reading and relaxing in my room for about an hour, I made my way toward the front parking lot for our 4 PM game drive. I spotted some vervet monkeys and followed them toward the swimming pool, where I took some amazing photos of them fighting with the mongoose.

What a phenomenal reserve! Established in 1961, 171 miles southwest of Nairobi, Masai Mara covers an area of 702 square miles. This ecosystem supports one of the largest populations of numerous animal groups on earth. There are more than 2 million wildebeest; 250,000 Thompson's gazelles; 200,000 zebras; 70,000 impala; 30,000 Grant gazelles; the largest lion population in Kenya; more than 450 species of birds; and 57 species of raptors. It is the northern extension of Tanzania's famous Serengeti Plains, where the annual migration of the wildebeest and zebra occurs.



Unfortunately, everyone in Kenya seemed to be in Masai Mara. I've never seen so many vans and 4X4 vehicles in one location. Here we are massing to view some lions.

We spotted our first fresh kill - a zebra with a group of Rupell's vultures pulling at it. Judy spat out, "assholes!" (guess she didn't like the vultures). We watched them in action for quite a few minutes then journeyed down the track where we spotted a silver-backed jackal. We tried to send it vibes that it should go back the way we just came from if it wanted a pleasant surprise. Well, he must have had low SAT scores because it took him some time to pick up the scent. Gradually, he wound his way back to the carrion (with us following along). It was interesting to watch the pecking order (no pun intended) at work with the vultures and the jackal. As soon as the jackal arrived, the vultures retreated slightly and waited for their turn at the carcass.

Other animals spotted included: Thompson & Grant gazelles, lions & cubs, hyenas, waterbucks, dik-dik, impala, topi, marabou stork, Masai ostrich, warthogs and wildebeest.


Monitor lizard.



Vervet monkey.


Rupell's vulture.



Topi.


Marabou stork.



Wildebeest - the assembled animal & clown of the plains (very stupid).
- ox head
- buffalo horns
- old man's beard
- antelope body
- horse's tail
- gazelle hooves



Male Masai ostrich. Note the pink neck & legs, denoting that the male is in heat


Hyena.



Secretary bird.

(L) Grant gazelle (white above the tail).

Hartebeest (below).









After dinner, Team Post Menopausal gathered for our ritual of wine and relaxation around the lodge's fireplace. Joining us was a young man playing his guitar and singing in a reedy voice. We really enjoyed listening to him, and whenever he played a song we knew, we joined in. Terry did not have to build the fire this time - the guys proved to be more than capable.

To bed for an early 4:30 AM departure for our hot air balloon ride tomorrow.

Well, we were up and at 'em by 4:30 AM, and after about an hour drive on the washboard, bumpy and dusty road, we arrived at the hot air balloon launch area - only to be informed by Captain Dave Weston that there would be no ride today because it was too windy. So, not ones to overlook making lemonade out of lemons, we returned to the lodge, ate breakfast and headed out on an early morning game drive. (I think our crew agreed that we saw more animals in the morning than we did in the late afternoon, so we didn't mind).

Our tolerance and flexibility paid great dividends this morning - first we were able to witness an abridged version of the migration - watching zebras and wildebeest march single file - as far as the eye could see - to one of the water holes, where the zebras courteously took turns to enter the water, cool down quickly and exit in quite the orderly fashion. The wildebeest were another matter. They made no attempt to wait their turn - bumping into each other to get to the water first, then pushing and shoving while in the water. Finally, one by one they exited, but not in the orderly fashion of the zebras. We believe they travel with the zebras because they are too stupid to be left to their own devices.














This concept was illustrated in dramatic fashion, when several minutes later Njoka brought the van to a halt, lifted his binoculars in the direction of the zebra/wildebeest procession on the other side of the water hole, and peeled out in a hurry. General Tracker was on point! We were the only van to witness an attempted live kill, watching in utter fascination for at least 30 minutes, as a lion stealthily slithered through the savannah grass, slowly and patiently stalking the wildebeest at the end of the small procession exiting the water hole. Iris tried to video the entire process, but when the lion sprang onto the haunches of the wildebeest, she got so excited she couldn't hold her camera steady (producing a Blair Witch Project special effect). Judy again spat out, "bastard!" - referring to the lion, of course. The good news was that the wildebeest managed to outrun the lion (remember the African proverb), thanks to a last-minute warning from the head zebra. After all the excitement we cheered aloud for Njoka - "Give me an N...what does it spell? Njoka, Njoka, Njoka!" and "2,4,6,8, who do we appreciate?..." He just cracked up.

We journey on toward a gathering of game drive vehicles, hoping to spot the last of the big 5 - the elusive leopard - but it turned out to be another lion sighting - exciting, but nothing like we just witnessed. Terry said that if we didn't find a leopard soon, she was going to buy a stuffed leopard or mannequin and we would smear it with a blood sample from each of us; cover it with Iris' bandana; and wrap it in one of Terry's Depends to draw out the cheetah or leopard:)

After lunch Iris, Terry & Bonnie went to a Masai village, and I joined Njoka for an afternoon game drive. We didn't see anything new except for the hartebeest (pictured earlier in this blog).

On my walk back to my room I took some hilarious photos of the vervet monkeys. One was trying to turn on the outside spigot and drink from it. When I tried getting closer one monkey in particular was very nasty and aggressive. When he hissed and came toward me I snapped a photo, hoping the flash would confuse him, but it only made him more aggressive. Needless to say, I practically ran to my room, quickly unlocked the door and hustled to safety.




















Back to the fireplace with Team Post Menopausal for one last round of pre-dinner drinks with the entire group (Judy will not be joining us for the Tanzanian extension). We enjoy the roaring fire, our favorite guitarist and the relaxing atmosphere.

Dinner is a farewell BBQ of chicken, pork, and beef; delicious vegetables & salads; decadent coconut macaroons with cream and chocolate sauce (I devoured those). After dinner, the staff came out and danced for us to the African song, "Jambo Jambo." Some of us joined the conga line and we all had a fantastic time.



















To bed early - 9:30 PM - for another try for the hot air balloon ride next morning at 4:30 AM...

Hooray - the hot air balloon ride the next morning is a go! All 16 of us climb into the gondola and we depart with 2 other balloons for a ride over the Kenyan portion of the Serengeti. Even though we only spot a rhino, buffalo, zebra and wildebeest, it is a phenomenal experience. We learn from Captain Dave that the wildebeest's rear hoof secretes a liquid to mark the trail so he knows how to return. The elephant, which also has poor eyesight, secretes a mucus-like liquid from its eyes to mark the trail in a similar fashion.















We enjoy a remarkable champagne breakfast buffet in the middle of the reserve after landing. We had 2 chefs making omelets, French toast and pancakes + the usual delicious fruits and vegetables + coffee, tea & champagne and/or mimosas (all quite civilized). I kept thinking that any smart carnivorous animal could have enjoyed quite the sumptuous feast that 40+ humans would have provided, since we were sitting ducks! I took photos of the other likeable members of our group, Teresa & Tsan, Roger & Keiko, Carol & Lou - no photos of the 5 people we didn't care for. Captain Peter posed me with empty champagne bottles when he saw me taking a photo of the "dead soldiers" - the empty champagne glasses - littering the table.




















On our way back to the lodge we came across a lion with a freshly-killed buffalo. We watched her devour the carcass for about 15 minutes before we moved on. (Amazing).













Very long, bumpy, dusty drive back to Nairobi's Safari Park Hotel. We were given a very generous box lunch from the Masai Mara staff. (This after the unpleasant 5 people traveling with us complained that there were too many hours in between meals for them. Not to mention that they were filling their pockets with food from the buffet after meals to tide them over. I found this to be quite disgusting, gauche and ugly - to say nothing about gluttonous). We couldn't even eat that much of our boxed lunches, so we offered most of them to a Kenyan woman working at the cooperative where we stopped for lunch. Thankfully she took us up on our offer, and she took the food home to her mother and little girl.

Crazy driving to Nairobi in rush hour traffic. Trucks were stacked up behind trucks, slowly inching upward on a narrow, 2-lane highway - passing each other on blind curves, unconcerned that there was oncoming traffic. A few times we squeezed between multiple trucks. Njoka looked like a NASCAR driver.

Safely back to Paradise Hotel to check in overnight before heading to the airport and Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Bid our very sad farewells to Njoka - he will be greatly missed. Bought some souvenirs at the gift shops; lost another $20 at the casino; then to bed around 10 PM after a much needed shower.